We left Washburn on Friday afternoon and drove the old blue truck to Bayfield where we parked about three miles out and biked into town. We swung by the Bayfield Bike Route on the way through and then...headed for the docks.
We put the Alpacka Rafts aside for this one and hitched a ride on a boat straight across the big lake. Thanks to Randy at C&W trucking for hooking us up with the boat ride. Here is the gargantuan boat we rode in with our bikes strapped to the back.
Thats Oak Island on the right and Manitou on the left, American flag front and center.
Two and a half hours later we approached Lake Superiors' North Shore. It's a grand spectacle. Fog and cliffs. The south shore of Lake Superior is mainly sandstone cliffs and sandy beaches. Once you get north of Duluth it turns to hard granite, cobblestone beaches, and old volcanic rock. It is a site to see and a joy to cyclo-tour.
Gran Marais harbor. What relief this harbor must bring to those seeking shelter from the massive swells and storms that blow across the lake throughout the season.We quickly docked. My dad and I jumped off the boat, eager to put aside the noisy gas engine, loaded our bikes and pedaled away. We grabbed a bite to eat and soon we were on our way down HWY 61 and south bound. Destination for the night: between Tofte and Shroeder, MN. aka. Temperance river.
Beer can wind screen around Esbit Stove and cast iron fry pan. I was a little skeptical of using the Esbit stove to cook sausage. It worked, but it used about 4 of the fuel tablets. My usual stove of choice for extended trips is my Whisperlite, but it's currently on loan to a friend. Last year we used a two person tent. This year we used two one man shelters. My dad had the Black Diamond Bivy Shelter I used my Hennessy Hammock.
The North Shore is lined with amazing rivers. It seemed every time we passed one, which was about every 7-10 miles, it was a gorgeous gorged out river valley with water falls, whirlpools, and cliffs. I neglected to take any pictures of these though. I am sure there are enough on the Internet already.Temperance river campground is the most strict campground I have ever been to. I guess it's just a sign of the times, and the location. I am not going to list off everything that irked me but here is a sneak peek: Each campsite was fenced in. Otherwise it was a nice spot. I was told from a local guy that if you biked inland six miles up the Temperance river there was free camping.
Our second day was one of the most intense days of riding I've experienced, as far as head winds go. Our destination was Two Harbors, 60 miles away. This trip was my first single speed tour. I rode my modified Surly 1x1 with an Epic frame bag and gas tank, a lite rear rack, and Surly's Nice front rack. My ratio was 34x18.I like the Surly Nice racks, especially the front one. It provides many options for lashing bags to it, a high and low spot for panniers, and when you need to remove your front wheel, the rack holds the bike in a firm and stable position, excellent for guying out a tarp. Not to mention the things bomb proof and works on just about any bike.
My dad rode the old Trek 520 as a 1x6 with rear panniers (Ortliebs with Arkel mounting hardware) and a Jim Blackburn front rack.
Father and son at Palisade Head. The road leading up is doozy. After Palisade, we headed off towards Two Harbors. We arrived, exhausted from battling a headwind all day, and the campground was full. We tapped into last years trip knowledge and stealth camped at a super secret location right on the lake.
Early morning departure from stealth campsite in Two Harbors, MN. I did not notice at the time of taking the photo, but take a good look at this one. Peace! Our next stop was to be Grandmas for the annual Bloody Mary in Duluth.
We made great time cruising into Duluth the next day and were soon waiting for the doors to open at Grandmas. We got our bloody's and jetted off towards Superior, WI. Believe it or not, biking from Superior through Duluth is a piece of cake, not to mention the view from the Bong bridge.
This railroad pivot bridge was rather anti-climactic. A siren goes goes off, followed by a huge fog horn, then an announcement to be aware. It makes one expect fucking fire works to go off, sky ablaze with submarines and massive jet powered lift bridges shooting into the air, making way for the Yacht of the Century, possibly even the ghost of the Titanic to come hovering through. And then, ever so painfully slow, the bridge begins to turn, making way for one little power boat and a 30' cruiser.
Figure it out...
Another great trip with my pops and another year gone by. I highly suggest the North Shore for a good short tour. There are a few sections off road paved trail, most of the highway has a wide shoulder, but there are few narrow shouldered spots. If you go, don't be afraid to stealth camp. There are alot of developed spots and people everywhere, but mother nature protects those who protect her!Salud!
2 comments:
What a great story. I'd love to get out in the open lake like that...did you ever get out of sight of land? Headwinds on a one-speed must be just awful---if there is ever a time to shift, it would be that.
The fences at Temperance are probably there to keep people from trampling the vegetation between the campsites. I'm guessing you had one of the "cart-in" sites, and some of those are fenced off to keep people from descending untracked forest to the lakeshore.
Yup. Open water with no site of land happened, just briefly, and was an awe-inspiring feeling. It was my first time out in the open water of the Big Lake.
That's exactly what I thought, about the fences.
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